Max Kaye's Site

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climbing goals - gyms reopen

Climbing gyms (and everything else) have just reopened (for the vaccinated) in Sydney, following a ~3.5 month lockdown. Now that climbing is frequent and regular again, I've been reconsidering climbing goals.

Before lockdown, my goal was to send every new grade 31 (out of 6) problem, every week, for 6 weeks (I'd done 5 weeks when lockdown started). 6 weeks is a full rotation, so achieving this means that I would have consistently been able to project any purple in 2-3 sessions. The purpose of this goal was to emphasise consistency over results (better to do be capable of any grade 3 problem than some grade 3 and some grade 4).

The current goal I've settled on is to send every grade 3 climb (in the gym) in a week -- there's about 24 or so (give or take depending on what gets set). I sent 10 this morning (over about 2hrs). I don't think I'd have been able to do that if I hadn't done some outdoor climbing during lockdown, tho. So far, so good. I have been going through them methodically, with a few exceptions (picking ones I thought I could do towards the end of the session, for example). So far no grade 3 has been particularly challenging, though crowd-beta has helped a bit. Major bottleneck atm (session-to-session) is probably endurance -- going to monitor that and take corrective action if it doesn't improve this week.

  1. the problems are color-graded, so grade 3 of 6 is purple, and 4 of 6 is black. there's no precise conversion to V-grades, but I guess purple is V2-5 and black is V4-? (6 or 7, maybe). 


Correction: I sent 13 / 25 purples (grade 3) on Monday.

I sent 9 of the remaining 12 this morning. so only 3 left for Friday morning -- lots of buffer!

I also sent my first grade 5 (yellow)!